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31Airborne

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Everything posted by 31Airborne

  1. so, from the dood who prefers a lil color in the water when he's fishing . . . yep, cover water but use your electronix to help you determine where the fish are holding. if you mark fish, then give it a try. no fish, move on to the next spot. with the water level being that dynamic, they're gonna pull back to a depth where they feel it's ~stable, esp the post-spawners. i'd start w/ 5-8', then pull back to 8-12'. shallower water tends to clear up first so don't completely ignore the skinny stuff. points will always hold fish. don't forget transition lanes - those places fish use to move to/from spawning grounds to holding areas.
  2. +1 on Merc. A 150 or 175 would go nicely on that Triton you have in mind. The business model behind outboard engines will drive the market to 4-strokes exclusively. No money and no time for maintaining duplicate supply chains. It's just the smart move.
  3. Happy b-day, JDV!  Many more, dood.

  4. So, I'm a believer. I can feel the difference. The data depicting the sound difference under water is irrefutable. The density of tungsten allows me to use smaller profile weights. That's a huge enabler when swimming my t-rig or c-rig (I throw both a lot) thru heavy cover. I recommend staying away from the weights w/ the little plastic sleeves. I find they do more damage to line than weight without the sleeves. The pain of making this switch was the price - the Tn weights are expensive. The good news is more people are selling them so prices are coming down a bit. For me, the extra cost is worth what I get on the performance end.
  5. +1 on Brwnbass' recommendation. Saw Chris Lane do this on one of the BASS fishing shows. It works!
  6. I agree w/ JDV - you'll get a lot of performance and life from the bigger battery.
  7. +1 on Interstate wet cell batts. You can get them anywhere, lots of places honor their warranty.
  8. welcome aboard! thank you for your service to our nation. Real C-c-c-c-c-c-av. Airborne earned his spurs w/ 2-8 CAV
  9. Rick - you should reach out to Joey at Watson's and ask who they use. He'll steer you straight. Hope you're well. We need to get out again. Soon. B
  10. +1 on braid or heavy (20#+) fluoro for flipping. i like fluoro for cranking (usually 12#), finesse (6-10#), and worms/jigs/etc (12-17#, depending on cover). I like co-poly for jerkbaits. light braid (15 or 20) for top water stuff.
  11. I love'em, Phil. Def a big fish bait.
  12. 31Airborne

    Older Ranger

    this is a great hull. have ridden in a few in my years - never had a bad ride. very good in heavy water. it looks to be in great shape so the garage-kept claim is easily believable. that Johnson motor is a workhorse - solid design, ~easy to maintain. like any marine motor, you'll want to have a tech go over it w/ a fine tooth comb.
  13. Congrats, Doug! A bittersweet victory - we'll miss your skills and creativity.
  14. First of all, thank you for your service, Devil Dog. You are (and always will be) a member of an elite fraternity. As for your questions: the only stupid ones are the ones you don't ask. Many of the doods on here will learn from the responses to your questions above. Your reports will help reinforce that learning. Power fishing is a relative term when fishing highland bodies of water. There will be times when the fish come up shallow (<10'). There will be times when 40' may not be deep enuff. Crankbaits may not be the power fishing bait of choice. You may need to consider weighted swimbaits, spoons/blades, underspins, heavy spinnerbaits, and heavy swimjigs to cover water quickly and efficiently. The Tokyo rig may be another. I've not used it but have seen it used as a power fishing presentation on some videos. The key is using something you can get and keep (the important part) in the strike zone. Ledges are an interesting kind of structure. Not all ledges are created equal. You'll want to target ledges that are close to shallower flats and channel swings. These will be places where fish can move to feed and back quickly, effortlessly. A little map study will help you ID these kinds of places. A little time over your electronix will help you dial in the locations that are holding fish. Couple things to keep in mind as you prepare to make your deep water power fishing trips: 1) Use the right gear. Throwing deep diving crankbaits will flat wear you out if don't have the correct rod. Do some homework on how the pros fish deep cranks. Ask some of the doods on here how they do it. Same-same for heavy swimbaits, swim jigs. 2) Semper Gumbi - remain flexible at all times. You may have 10 or 12 rods out for these trips. You'll want to cycle thru them all to get to the best solution for the conditions you're fishing. BPT tie on lots of different stuff, changing colors, body shape, bill length, etc as you work thru options. 3) Keep a notebook handy. Take notes on what does, does not work as you work thru your outings. As you build up a few pages you'll then have an informed start point. You'll gradually eliminate the guesswork and get to a place where you have some confidence in finding/catching fish. Finally, congrats on retirement. Airborne retired 11 years ago after 32 years on active duty. I find solace in fishing now. Many of my trips are with my Bros from my active duty days. Good luck w/ your move to KY. B
  15. welcome aboard! tons of good info on this site. encourage you to spend some time reading thru old reports - you'll pick up a lot of tips on baits, presentations, and navigation. look forward to reading your reports.
  16. The term "turnover" is usually associated with the flip of water layers (colder and warmer) that occurs in the fall. That said, the heavy rains and up-n-down weather we've had lately would certainly cause lakes to go thru turnover kinds of activity. The challenges you're having right now are more likely associated with the timing of the spawn (fish tend to shut down during and immediately after) and the up-n-down weather. Unstable weather means unstable water, esp when you factor in 1-3" of rain. Temperature swings like the ones we've had recently will shut fish down. In addition to algae bloom you may be experiencing the effects of pollination. Trees, esp pine trees, are deep into their annual reproductive cycles now so you've prob got a good layer of pollen on everything, incl the water.
  17. Lotsa good stuff in the archives. Look forward to reading yours. Welcome aboard!
  18. yep, some fine bags of fish. y'all brought in the big guns for this one. looking forward to the Quarryville event end of May.
  19. Jamie - I use one of these: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Plano_ProLatch_Utility_Box_3607_Open_Compartment/descpage-P360710.html B
  20. Steve - Andy nailed it. There were issues early on w/ the first gen units. Those issues have been addressed. I have one on my sled - can't imagine being without it. Calling it a game-changer is a gross understatement. It's by far the biggest enabler I have on board. Worth every penny IMHO. You won't be disappointed. B
  21. You'll find that there will be times when one style of plastic bait is better than others. The challenge is finding the balance - of options, of time to learn how to use those options, of space in which to store it all. Same-same for techniques (like shakyhead, football jig, etc). There are no hard-n-fast rules on when, where, or how. That's what makes this sport so addictive. There's always another piece of the puzzle to solve. Based on my [limited] experience here's how I pattern soft plastics: - winter - small finesse worms (ned rig, drop shot, and shakyhead), small flukes and worms (drop shot), small beaver style baits for jig trailers - spring - creature baits (c-rig), lizards (c-rig), larger finesse worms (shakyhead, wacky rig), stick baits (weightless, t-rig, and wacky rigged), swim baits (solid and hollow body) - summer - big worms (t-rig), creature baits (c-rig), small and large finesse worms (shakyhead, wacky rig), stick worms (same as above), big beavers (punch baits) - fall - swim baits, creature baits, flukes, trick worms I keep my plastics sorted by type and store them in small tote bags. That enables me to plug-n-play for an outing based on season, info from reports, and info from my journals. All of this is kept in one of the small compartments on the back deck. Not a lot volume-wise but a good variety. I'll adjust (add, subtract, upsize, downsize) based on what I learn in practice. Other things to consider: 1) Buoyancy. Not all plastics are created equal. Infused (salt, scent) baits are denser than water and sink. Others (Softy's baits, Robo-worm) are not so they float up off of the deck. Both catch fish. There are times when the characteristics of the plastic formula make the difference. 2) Hook size and weight. Light wire hooks for small profile finesse baits. Heavy wire hooks for big profile and punch baits. You'll want an assortment of J, EWGs, drop shot, flipping, and other kinds of hooks. Easy to pack a nice assortment into a small box or bag. 3) Weights. Think about weights and shapes. Heavier weight if you're fishing deep. A bullet shaped weigh if you're working it thru cover. Then there are specialty weights for drop shotting, flipping, wacky, the list goes on. The key here is to match the hook to your desired presentation and bait profile. Others will chime in here on metals used for weights. Some swear by tungsten. Others use lead. Others use brass. As with the hook, match your weight type to your presentation. This was a great question. You're thinking about the right kind of stuff. Keep it up!
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