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Jbrown

Cranking

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Thanks for all the advice guys, probably going again today to try after work. Had to jig up some white bass yesterday just to feel a fish 

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On 4/10/2018 at 10:44 PM, JWB said:

Trial and error only way to learn. I say all the time it’s hard to catch another mans fish don’t do something because it’s what another fisherman does. Gotta believe in what YOU are doin. Confidence is key. Try to think about where fish should be and why. When water first gets around 50ish I believe crawdads start to come out so I fish a craw colored bait where crawdads should be. When fish get closer to spawning I throw bluegill colored baits around spawning areas I believe they will tryin kill the bluegills around where they wanna spawn. Follow the fish and the bait fish and adjust accordingly. I don’t believe you have to be hitting bottom all the time just depends on what fish are doing if you see fish hanging around bait on your sonar this time of year tie on a bait for according depth and type of baitfish and go to work they are there to feed. That being said a lot of the time making contact with bottom, rocks, wood or doing something with your retrieve is what triggers them to react but I don’t think there is any particular angle or retrieve or fancy rod and reel gonna make the fish bite every time. I’ve caught just as many on a $75 combo as a $350 combo. Gotta get bites first then you can narrow down rod, reel, and line combos to your own liking. I personally think a graphite rod would be better for someone who is trying to learn or gain confidence because you can better feel what your bait is doing. Sorry to be long winded just my ten cents.

Well you can use a broom stick & it will work. But a nice crankbait rod has many things going for it. Easier to cast & retrieve baits with, better to retrieve crankbaits because it "loads up" & allows the bait to deflect off cover much better, whitch is where 75% of your bites come from. Easier on your arm & shoulder by being light & flexible, &  better to hook fish with & keep them hooked.

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Went again last night and caught 2! With a crank! Heck of it was they both bit with 2 ft of line out after the bait had already come off the bottom and was about to hit the boat. Also I ran up the holston thinking I could crank up smallmouth on some flats. The two I caught were a walleye and largemouth, that's what I get for thinking!!!

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Walleye and sauger should’ve in the shoals right now I’ve caught the on bright colored any things Grubs jerkbaits flies especially up Miller shoals 

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On 4/10/2018 at 5:21 PM, Jamie De Vera said:

Don't forget line size makes a difference too. Most people including myself use 12lb fluorocarbon but I think I may be going down to 10 on some cranks. Color will also make a big difference. Trial and error bro!

+1 on this one!  Line size and stretch I have found is key.  I have switched to a 10lb MONO, and here is why.  Floro has alot less stretch than mono and that little bit of stretch could mean you landing the fish and not.  When fishing baits like a DD22/6XD or heck even a bandit 200/300 with treble hooks you need to have a little bit of give in the line so that the hooks to not rip out of the fishes mouth.  The choice to switch to a 10lb MONO and a real cranking rod has changed my hookup ratio tremendously on Cranks.  I no longer hate throwing them like I once did.  Another Key Aspect is the right reel, alot of guys can throw them on a faster speed reel 6.3:1+ but I simply cannot.  I have an older Lews 5.4:1 speed spool reel that I use and it helps me keep the bait down and not over crank.

 

Im no Expert either but thats my 2 and a half Cents on the subject.  Keep cranking and experiementing man it will finally click. Dont get discouraged Mind over Matter!!!!

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16 hours ago, SilverFox said:

I throw shallow to medium running cranks on 8 pound mono. 6XD and 10XD on 10 pound mono. Only exception is traps and I throw them on 17 pound mono and braid. 

 

David Fritts cranking... https://www.bassmaster.com/david-fritts/throw-your-crankbaits-right-line

That article was interesting. Looks like I may be trying some new stuff 😎

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I like mono or braid as well. I’ve tried fluorocarbon a couple of times, and hated it. Ok for leaders on finesse stuff maybe, but I don’t like it for anything else. But to each their own

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My 2 cents worth varies a lil bit from what's above. Depth control is the key to getting crankbait bites. I got tired of throwing a dt6 and, with 10# mono, not hitting the bottom in 5 ft of water. I tried flouro & experienced the breakage issues. Tried a few kinds of braid...power pro was the best, but still sucked casting & there's zero give, which makes it right next door to impossible to crawl a crank over stuff like logs. Tried copoly stuff & wasn't impressed with it's abrasion resistance. Back to flouro & tried different brands. In my experience, Seaguar red label or Abraz-X is the best I've found for cranking. It's tougher than most flouro & yes, you do need to trim off 6-10 ft every couple hours. Generally, I check for abrasions every 10-15 casts & when I need to retie, I cut off 10 ft at a whack. This sounds costly, but tackle warehouse typically runs a sale on 1000 yard spools after Christmas. I buy a spool of 10, 12 & 15# every year. Usually go through most of each spool, although I use far less of the 15#, which gets me back to depth control. I typically use 3-4 cranking set ups throughout the year. I spool with different diameter lines to target different depths. I can tell you with proper technique, a good long cast & 10# Seaguar, you can dredge the bottom at 11 ft deep with a stock (unmodified) DT6. The versatility offered by flouro outweighs the line waste & potential breakage with it, in my opinion. As Steve said above, to each their own, but my "own" prefers flouro and good flouro generally isn't prone to breakage, although how you store it can greatly affect this as well.

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I use Vicious fluorocarbon for cranking and well pretty much everything. Use nothing but 12# for all my crankbaits, except 8 and 10 XDs, until this yr. Was scared to go less but not anymore. I can get my crankbaits down and bouncing around and I won't retie unless I break off which is hardly ever. I sling the living crap out of my baits and Vicious fluorocarbon has held up tremendously. Again like Andy and Steve said, to eachs own. 

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I also crank with seagar red label. 6lb on 6’8” med light (dobyns) graphite spinning rod early in year for shad raps. 8lb on 7ft med (lews) graphite spinning rod for dt6 and bandits. 10-12 lb on 7’6” med (loomis) cranking rod for almost everything else. But I’m in the market for a bigger rod for 8-10xds but will prob not go bigger than 12lb line though unless I just find a school of 6-7lbers. I like fast reels for smaller baits and low slow gears for bigger baits the low gears seem to help me with fatigue. I slow crawl big baits but I really like to burn small crank baits. Been having decent success last month or so burning a dt6 only hitting bottom about half of my cast and have caught prob equal amount of fish deflecting off the bottom as bringing it through open water. If you have an idea of where the fish are setting up burn it through em they gotta hit it or get out of the way. Also a firm believer in upgrading hooks I fish with stock hooks when just fun fishing but every bait I plan on throwing in a tournament gets new hooks the night before the derby I like owner stingers in factory size on front and oversized gamagatsu short shank wide gaps in rear. 

Edited by JWB
Adding hook info
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Since last summer I’ve been cranking with K9, 10 lb for deep divers and squarebills and 8lb for little johns, dt6, and rk crawlers. I love it for castability, achieving depth, and it has held up surprisingly well. I have some on a spinning rod that I crank with that’s been on there since last August. So far, it’s been a case of, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

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Had a small club Tx sat on Cherrekee and put some this to use and actually caught fish on them I was throwing a 6 Xd in spring crawl and had several fish on and managed to catch 2 on it but I did break a nice one off so maybe I need to start checking my line more often but I was keeping my boat in about 15 ft and casting up the bank and dragging back except for on the points but one of them I hooked was a decent lm in what seemed to be open water till I got closer to where I had hooked him at there was some huge rocks sticking up off that point I saved that spot on my gps but I was just proud of getting bit on them

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9 hours ago, Jbrown said:

Had a small club Tx sat on Cherrekee and put some this to use and actually caught fish on them I was throwing a 6 Xd in spring crawl and had several fish on and managed to catch 2 on it but I did break a nice one off so maybe I need to start checking my line more often but I was keeping my boat in about 15 ft and casting up the bank and dragging back except for on the points but one of them I hooked was a decent lm in what seemed to be open water till I got closer to where I had hooked him at there was some huge rocks sticking up off that point I saved that spot on my gps but I was just proud of getting bit on them

Good job bud! Keep at it and you'll have one tied on all yr!

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On ‎4‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 1:17 PM, rusty50576 said:

Went again last night and caught 2! With a crank! Heck of it was they both bit with 2 ft of line out after the bait had already come off the bottom and was about to hit the boat. Also I ran up the holston thinking I could crank up smallmouth on some flats. The two I caught were a walleye and largemouth, that's what I get for thinking!!!

When this happens or when the follow your crankbait without biting it try slowing down the retrieve or use a stop-n-go retrieve.

Way to stay with it!

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6 hours ago, 31Airborne said:

When this happens or when the follow your crankbait without biting it try slowing down the retrieve or use a stop-n-go retrieve.

Way to stay with it!

+1

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I may try the Seaguar, given the recommendations here. The other fluoros I tried were horrible. 

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On 4/25/2018 at 11:05 PM, SteveHTN said:

I may try the Seaguar, given the recommendations here. The other fluoros I tried were horrible. 

I use the cheap pline copolymer. Its 5 bucks for a 300yd spool. Its strong & fairly abrasion resistant. But i go thru alot of line cranking. I retie every 10 or so casts whether it needs it, or knot, and definitely after every fish or hang up.

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Crankbaits and east Tn lakes go together like peanut butter and jelly.. if your not cranking at some point your probably not cashing many checks in my opinion. I’m no expert but have noticed several things this year experimenting with them. First of all water temp and bait selection is #1 in my opinion. Personally witnessed a squarebill bite hot and heavy with 58-60* temps, 3 days later after cold fronts water dropped to 51-53 and the squarebill bite was not existent. Switched over to flat sided bait even tho it was warm out, that drop in water temp made the difference. Wrecked em for many days on it til the water warmed back up. I throw most of my cranks on a 5:3:1 or 6:4:1. I like slower in colder temps or when slinging big crankbaits. Also pay attention to depth. I write the diving depth on every crankbait under the bill so that I know where it dives.  Anything with some chartreuse in it in dirty water and you will get bit. Also, when you do get bit don’t settle on that crankbait. First bite let’s ya know they will eat it, second, and third should be color adjustments to fine tune the bite. Iv seen one shade of red not catch em and another catch 4lbrs. Weird 🤔 I also pay close attention to what my crankbait is doing. Caught a lot of fish killing it after hitting rocks. Hope this helps! There’s a lot better crankers on here but this is my approach 

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On 5/10/2018 at 2:45 AM, Crriderz01 said:

Crankbaits and east Tn lakes go together like peanut butter and jelly.. if your not cranking at some point your probably not cashing many checks in my opinion. I’m no expert but have noticed several things this year experimenting with them. First of all water temp and bait selection is #1 in my opinion. Personally witnessed a squarebill bite hot and heavy with 58-60* temps, 3 days later after cold fronts water dropped to 51-53 and the squarebill bite was not existent. Switched over to flat sided bait even tho it was warm out, that drop in water temp made the difference. Wrecked em for many days on it til the water warmed back up. I throw most of my cranks on a 5:3:1 or 6:4:1. I like slower in colder temps or when slinging big crankbaits. Also pay attention to depth. I write the diving depth on every crankbait under the bill so that I know where it dives.  Anything with some chartreuse in it in dirty water and you will get bit. Also, when you do get bit don’t settle on that crankbait. First bite let’s ya know they will eat it, second, and third should be color adjustments to fine tune the bite. Iv seen one shade of red not catch em and another catch 4lbrs. Weird 🤔 I also pay close attention to what my crankbait is doing. Caught a lot of fish killing it after hitting rocks. Hope this helps! There’s a lot better crankers on here but this is my approach 

I agree with everything you said, but i will add some to it. Chartreuse is a good color in any water color or clarity. Don't just use deep crankbaits for deep cranking. I will throw a 6XD in 5' or less. It makes them run very erratic & stir up a bunch of junk. They also deflect esp well in shallower water. Both of which can get a ton of bites.

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A lot of good information here. So here's my take the minnow baits I have got pretty decent at what I found is twitching the rod tip giving the bait action and the speed of the retrieve and then combine that into a rhythm it will help pay attention to strikes that's your key.

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Its important to remember that deep cranking and shallow cranking are two very different things! Equipment, baits, boat position, and technique all change. One thing that imperative to both deep and shallow cranking is speed. When you find the right speed, things get a lot easier. 

Edited by GlitterRocket

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Ya I have really got into cranking this year no where near mastered but getting where I’m catching a few been throwing big dredgers and dd22 and spro in a silent seem like they all have their place and time but caught some nice fish this year thanks for all the information and advice and a 7/11 cranking rod helps for the big lures don’t wear you out nearly as bad 

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