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blacklight evaluation


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instead of all the arguing about which is best or brightest, you should evaluate blacklights by price, uv power, wavelength, visible light power, size, durability, warranty, etc.

use objective evaluation instead of subjective opinion. all leds have an output rating just like horsepower of an outboard engine. if the manufacturers will provide truthful data, there would be no question which is brightest. also remember brightest is not always best to 'all' people.

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About time somebody brought this topic up. :notworthy: The only blacklights we have used is the piggyback stan sloans. We have used them for the past 16 years with no complaints but :unsure: I guess it might be time to start looking into upgrading. :rolleyes: So lets hear it. What do you guys suggest? :scratch:

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About time somebody brought this topic up. :notworthy: The only blacklights we have used is the piggyback stan sloans. We have used them for the past 16 years with no complaints but :unsure: I guess it might be time to start looking into upgrading. :rolleyes: So lets hear it. What do you guys suggest? :scratch:

Snoot wont take you fishing so I guess you can use them for nightlights for baby possums :lol:

Ok... Stan Sloans are good lights, they do the job. But they are bulky and just not as bright as the newer LED's.

Nucli-Eyes are very good lights and are maybe just a little brighter than the Moonlites. Only drawback I see to them are price.

But hey if you got the money, knock yourself out.

Moonlites are also bright, small and do not get hot (unlike some of the first Moons that came out.) They are also half the price of the Nucli-Eyes.

Basically, price was my decision for the Moonlites, nothing more. I have had them for a few years now and they have worked flawlessly.

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Snoot wont take you fishing so I guess you can use them for nightlights for baby possums :lol:

Ok... Stan Sloans are good lights, they do the job. But they are bulky and just not as bright as the newer LED's.

Nucli-Eyes are very good lights and are maybe just a little brighter than the Moonlites. Only drawback I see to them are price.

But hey if you got the money, knock yourself out.

Moonlites are also bright, small and do not get hot (unlike some of the first Moons that came out.) They are also half the price of the Nucli-Eyes.

Basically, price was my decision for the Moonlites, nothing more. I have had them for a few years now and they have worked flawlessly.

+1 :applause:

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Thanks for the info. :applause: Now can you explain to us what all this means and why you feel your lights are superior to other brands on the market? Just curious, and thanks by the way. :cheers:

moonlite provides the highest UV power per dollar invested, of existing lights available today.

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moonlite provides the highest UV power per dollar invested, of existing lights available today.

this sounds interesting...what do you base your facts on...where do you get your information from..

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I have two different lights I have been using for years. I think most folks began with Sloans back years ago such as myself. I did switch to Hoppy's Low profile Pro lights several years back and I use them now and will use the as long as they build them or I die. When son-in-law in on the back of the boat there is Sloans on the rear and Hoppy's on the front. He needs the Blue light to see the bank 20 yards away to keep from tree fishing............... :smash::smash::clap::clap:

I have fished out of boats with Moon-Lites, Nuclieye, and a couple other later model lights and I for my use of black lights was not impressed with the lights nor the prices.

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You sound as if you're up on these things. Do you have experience in these lights? :scratch:

35+ years electronic manufacturing including all types of LEDs.

links are not available for the parts we use currently. here are the key points in the datasheet.

• Industry’s most powerful 1-watt package

• Easy integration with secondary optics

• Small footprint — 7 mm x 9 mm

• ESD > 2000V

• Designed for automated assembly and reflow

• Available on reels for high-volume assembly

Characteristic Unit

DC Forward Current mA 350

Reverse Voltage V See Note*

LED Junction Temperature ˚C 125

Storage Temperature ˚C -20 to +100

Operating Temperature ˚C -20 to +80

ESD Classification (HBM per Mil-Std-883D) Class 2

UV-L1-UV8-13-0001

Heat management is critical when designing LED-based applications. The coefficient of temperature increase per input

of electric power at room temperature is about .05°C/mW at the LED’s active layer or higher when LEDs are densely

mounted. Operating current should be decided after considering the ambient maximum temperature when the LEDs are

operating.

*Note UVV LEDs should never be operated with reverse bias.

These devices radiate intense ultraviolet (UV) light when operated. Most of the UV light emitted is not visible. Exposure

to UV radiation can be harmful to your health. Protect your eyes and skin during operation.

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35+ years electronic manufacturing including all types of LEDs.

links are not available for the parts we use currently. here are the key points in the datasheet.

• Industry’s most powerful 1-watt package

• Easy integration with secondary optics

• Small footprint — 7 mm x 9 mm

• ESD > 2000V

• Designed for automated assembly and reflow

• Available on reels for high-volume assembly

Characteristic Unit

DC Forward Current mA 350

Reverse Voltage V See Note*

LED Junction Temperature ˚C 125

Storage Temperature ˚C -20 to +100

Operating Temperature ˚C -20 to +80

ESD Classification (HBM per Mil-Std-883D) Class 2

UV-L1-UV8-13-0001

Heat management is critical when designing LED-based applications. The coefficient of temperature increase per input

of electric power at room temperature is about .05°C/mW at the LED’s active layer or higher when LEDs are densely

mounted. Operating current should be decided after considering the ambient maximum temperature when the LEDs are

operating.

*Note UVV LEDs should never be operated with reverse bias.

These devices radiate intense ultraviolet (UV) light when operated. Most of the UV light emitted is not visible. Exposure

to UV radiation can be harmful to your health. Protect your eyes and skin during operation.

Not quite sure what all that means but thanks for sharing the info. :D Much appreciated. :cheers: When you mentioned that "links are not available for the parts we use currently", does this mean that you are the owner or part owner of the Moonlites? :scratch: Just curious and thanks again for providing the specs. :cheers:

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I must say, after using Jim's half moon the other night, I will probly be investing on a pair of those bad boys. I have never used a nuclieye, but i couldnt afford one anyhow. For the size, them little half moons put out some serious light!

+1 on the half moon's I have two and I really like them :headbang:

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  • 1 month later...

About time somebody brought this topic up. :notworthy: The only blacklights we have used is the piggyback stan sloans. We have used them for the past 16 years with no complaints but :unsure: I guess it might be time to start looking into upgrading. :rolleyes: So lets hear it. What do you guys suggest? :scratch:

I guess I am just old school with a dash of confidence in the great Blacklight debate. I use Hoppys Pro Glow's. Have been pretty much since I first got my boat. I'm just not a fan of lighting up the bank like an airport at night. I just feel like the fish are used to the darkness after the night has set in and when you troll down the bank with spotlights glareing, I'm sure fish spook, Maybe not all, but a good majority. I mainly come to this conclusion due to fishing Watauga, 95% of the time and the water is CLEAR! Maybe on down the country at Douglas, Cherokee, Telico, etc... the water is more staind so it wouldn't matter as much.

Anyways, Momma, if you and Snoot are looking for a good "old school" replacement, Look at the Hoppy's Pro Glows. I Love both of mine! :notworthy::headbang:

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